Changes
I needed more color on the blog so I changed the theme. Tell me what you think. I had to shorten the Category names to fit with the new design, which is a bummer becasue everyone’s full titles were listed. This only means I need to update the website content so all well-deserved and hard-earned titles are clearly evident.
Charlene shared a really cool link with me it is a database of most AKC performance titles:
- View a searchable list of all dogs in our database.
- See a searchable list of AKC obedience shows and results for each show.
- See a searchable list of AKC rally shows and results for each show.
- See a searchable list of AKC agility shows and results for each show.
- View a searchable list of AKC judges and their judging assignments in obedience, agility, and rally.
I added several new sites to the Blogroll:
Our very own JK’s
Batmanimal
Sue Ailsby, a real character, great writer, speaker, and a fantastic dog trainer. If you are looking for something to help motivate you to work with your dog, follow Sue’s “levels” program.
http://www.sue-eh.ca/
This site is from Nuke’s owner (N-litter XBox – O’Stara). We all have enjoyed her photography, and well she is one of those people that is good at everything she does and she does a lot.
http://kitlear.modwest.com/
Puppy Questions
Here are some of the puppy questions, feel free to jump in and add your thoughts.
Could you brush Kira and give me a bag of her fur so I’ll be able to add her scent to his bed?
What I normally do is send a toy home with the puppy that I have rubbed on their mother or one of the other older dogs they have spent time with. Also if your puppy is being shipped I have you send the crate early and I set it up in their area so they can get use to it. Another common thing is to send a blanket that I put in the puppy area, it then goes home, unwashed, with the puppy.
Should I bring his crate into our bedroom at night, so I’ll know if he needs to go out? (I’m going to keep him tethered to me all day.)
Tethering your puppy to you is the thing to do, you will have great success with housebreaking by doing this. I always have the puppy crate in my bedroom next to my bed. If it is possible elevate the crate so the puppy can look out and see you in bed. Before we used dog crates we use to go to bed with the puppy on a leash and fall asleep holding onto the leash. I love dog crates.
Can he sleep in our bed the first night?
I am not a proponent of letting dogs sleep in bed with you. However, the first night away from their litter-mates is a shock, they are used to sleeping with their litter-mates and from birth they have slept touching each other and often cuddled tightly together. The first night I do let the pup cuddle with me until they fall asleep, then I gently set them into their crate which is right next to my bed and let them finish sleeping. The first week, expect the pup to wake up around 2 am to go potty and then 6 am. After about a week they will start sleeping through the 2 am potty call.
How often should we give him a bath, and what type of shampoo is recommended? Baby shampoo?
The secret to bathing your puppy/dog is rinsing them completely and thoroughly. There are many nice shampoos available the premium ones must be diluted or you will end up with an itchy puppy. When they go through a coat change a nice warm bath helps loosen the hair, and using a conditioner really helps get the dead coat out.
Some of the shampoos I like are:
Crown Royale Biovite formula 3 for GSD
Chris Christensen Grooming products they have several shampoos I like. they also have color “correcting” shampoos for black coats, red coats, etc. On my black and red dogs I use the white-on-white shampoo…yep it doesn’t change their color but it makes them look really good. I also like their Spectrum One for coarse rough coats.
When should we take him to visit our vet?
You want to take them to your vet the next day or two after you bring your puppy home. When you leave here with your puppy, they have been: vaccinated, microchipped and /or tattoo’d, given heartworm preventive, and wormed; the first visit to your DVM will be a basic exam and a meet-and-greet.
“Pickett” gets a home in LA (R-litter)
Hey everyone. I wanted to drop in and say how happy I am with my little black/red from R litter. Since December I’ve been looking for the right breeder for a GSD, starting the search with the local breeders out here in Southern California. These breeders serving the rich and famous, recommended by Cesar Milan and the like – however I was getting negative vibes from them. It all seemed to be a dollar and cents game – plus I was finding negative customer reviews online about Hips and Heart problems. So in January I gave up and told my brother (a GSD owner) to find me the best breeder in the country with the highest peer reviews (which is really how I do all my “shopping”.) He found Julie.
Julie and I have been in communication since late January and it’s been a very positive experience for me. Status updates, pictures and the like. I described to Julie what I wanted in my pup – mainly a medium energy companion and she helped to pick the pup which would me most appropriate for me.
A week ago I went to the airport to pick up my little guy after his brave journey across the country on his own. He was crying in his crate when I got him but who can blame him!? After I filled out the paperwork we found a nice little grass patch near the airport and I cleaned him up a bit and we played for like an hour, letting him stretch his legs before rush hour journey back home.
Since then its been lots of fun! I have been taking it easy on work since I got him and we’ve been getting to be good buds. He’s had a healthy appetite – we train with little bits of carrots and he couldn’t be happier. He got a positive check up at the vet and he played a little bit with the staff getting some nice treats.
On Monday the Vet gave us the ok to join a puppy manners class and Pickett did pretty well. He even got asked to stay after class to help work with this miniature chihuahua and they played for about 30 minutes.
So thats it, off to a meeting now (of course bringing the puppy). The great thing about being in show business is everyone has their pets in the studio, and people take really good care of them! Thanks again!
UKC Adopts a New Standard for the GSD
As of May 1, 2012 the UKC adopts a new standard for the GSD. The new standard is not perfect but certainly better then their previous standard. The new standard makes it clear the over-angulated, loose-ligamented dogs that are typical of the American show-lines are not acceptable by structure or temperament. The over-exaggerated GSD with their sketchy character are the German Shepherd dogs that win predominately at the UKC shows in Michigan especially in the Western part of the state. The breeders and exhibitors of these German Shepherd Dogs are also UKC judges and member/owners/officers of the clubs that hold the shows. They are also the ones to hire the judges, transport the judges, and ring-stewart for the judges, and entertain the judges.
This type of GSD, IMHO, never fit the standard but now it is clearly spelled out. Certainly none of these GSD fit with the UKC claim to be the place for the “Total Dog” meaning dogs that can do it all. Or as there new slogan goes, “Real Dogs for Real People.”
It will be interesting to see what happens.
Revised May 1, 2012
The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges. Breeders and judges have the responsibility to avoid any conditions or exaggerations that are detrimental to the health, welfare and soundness of this breed, and must take the responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated.
Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog’s ability to perform its traditional work.
The tendencies toward exaggeration and steep angles are unacceptable. German Shepherd Dogs with unstable temperaments, sharply angulated croups, overly long front and rear pasterns, and hocks that are weak and wobbly are poor representations of this working breed. UKC is unwilling to condone the validity of using such dogs in a breeding program, and cautions judges about awarding wins to these representatives.
HISTORY
The German Shepherd Dog is a relatively young breed, developed almost single-handedly in the first half of the twentieth century by a German cavalry officer, Max von Stephanitz, president of the Verein far Deutsche Schaferhunde S.V. Using a variety of German sheepdogs as his foundation stock, von Stephanitz developed a distinctive breed in a very short period of time, due in large part to the authoritarian practices of the German dog fancy at that time. Von Stephanitz emphasized utility and intelligence in his breeding program, enabling the German Shepherd Dog to switch easily from herding duties to other fields of work, particularly military and police work. The breed was just gaining notice in the United States when World War I broke out. All things German were shunned and popularity slumped. After the war, however, movie star Rin-Tin-Tin stimulated interest in the breed again. The striking good looks of this breed, combined with its remarkable intelligence and loyalty, have made it a favorite working and companion dog.
The German Shepherd Dog was recognized by the United Kennel Club in 1924.
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The German Shepherd Dog is a medium-sized, well-balanced, muscular dog, slightly longer than tall, with a medium length coat, erect ears, and a low-set natural tail that normally reaches to the hock and is carried in a slight curve like a saber. The outline of the German Shepherd Dog is made up of smooth curves rather than angles.
The head is in proportion to the size of the body, strong without appearing coarse or fine. Gender differences are readily apparent. The German Shepherd Dog should be evaluated as an all-around working dog, and exaggerations or faults should be penalized in proportion to how much they interfere with the dog’s ability to work.
Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid
CHARACTERISTICS
The German Shepherd Dog is confident and fearless, willing to be approached, yet a certain level of aloofness towards strangers is acceptable. When working, the German Shepherd is alert and eager, adapting well to new tasks. Lack of confidence is a serious defect in the character of a German Shepherd. The structure of this breed was designed for efficient locomotion, particularly at the trot, so poor movement is another serious fault.
Disqualifications: Viciousness or extreme shyness.
HEAD
The head is proportional to the size of the dog, and cleanly chiseled. Males should appear masculine without coarseness; and females feminine without being overly fine. The skull and muzzle are of equal length, parallel to one another, and joined at a very slight stop. There is little or no median furrow.
SKULL – The skull is broad and only very slightly domed. In males, the skull is slightly wider than it is long; in females, the skull is slightly narrower. Viewed from the front, the skull tapers evenly from the ears toward the muzzle. The cheeks are just slightly rounded but do not protrude.
MUZZLE – The muzzle is long and wedge-shaped, with strong, well-developed jaws. In profile, the bridge of the muzzle is straight and parallel to the topline of the skull. Lips are tight and darkly pigmented.
Faults: Muzzle too short, blunt, weak, pointed, or overlong.
TEETH – The German Shepherd Dog has a complete set of evenly spaced, white teeth meeting in a scissors bite.
Faults: Overshot or level mouth; missing first premolars.
Serious Fault: Missing teeth other than first premolars.
Disqualifications: Undershot; wry mouth.
NOSE – The nose is always black.
Disqualification: Nose not predominantly black.
EYES – The eyes are as dark as possible, of medium size, almond-shaped, and set slightly obliquely. Expression is alert, calm, and intelligent. Eye rims are dark.
Fault: Protruding eyes.
EARS – Ears are erect, moderately pointed, of medium size, broad at the base, and set high. Ear leather is firm. When the dog is alert, the centerlines of the ears, viewed from the front, are perpendicular to the ground and parallel to each other.
Disqualifications: Cropped ears; drop or tipped ears.
NECK
The neck is relatively long but strong and muscular. The skin is tight. The German Shepherd Dog normally carries the head just a little higher than the shoulders, particularly when moving.
FOREQUARTERS
The shoulder blades are long, well muscled, well laid back, and laid flat to the body. The upper arms, also long and well muscled, join the shoulder blade at nearly a right angle. A straight line drawn from the withers to the ground should pass just behind the back of the foreleg.
FORELEGS – From the pasterns to the elbows, the forelegs are straight and strong with oval-shaped bones. The pasterns are strong and supple, sloping no more than 25 degrees. The elbows are neither close to the body nor out, but are set on a plane parallel to the body. The length of the forelegs should be just slightly more than half the height of the dog, measured at the withers.
Serious Faults: Pasterns slanted more than 25 degrees. Pasterns so long and weak that proper movement is compromised.
BODY
A properly proportioned German Shepherd Dog is longer (measured from prosternum to point of buttocks) than tall (measured from the withers to the ground) in a ratio of 10 to 9. The length is derived from proper construction of forequarters and hindquarters and not from length of back.
The line of the back slopes downward from the withers into a straight, strongly developed, and relatively short back.Ribs are long and extend well back, resulting in a short, broad loin. The croup is long and slightly sloping.
Viewed from the front, the chest is deep and well filled. From the side, the forechest extends in front of the forelegs and the brisket down to the elbows. Tuck-up is moderate.
Faults: Barrel ribs; ribs too flat; long loin.
Serious Faults: Any measure of a roached back. Shelly appearance.
HINDQUARTERS
Viewed from the side, the hindquarters are broad and muscular. The angulation of the hindquarters is in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. The rear pastern is short and strong, and should remain upright and functional. Powerful hindquarters are necessary to enable the effortless movement that is an essential feature of this breed. Rear pasterns should remain upright and functional.
Serious Faults: Over-angulated rear, with anything exaggerated beyond a mild slope. Rear pasterns so long and weak that proper movement is compromised.
FEET
Feet are round and tight, with toes well arched. Pads are thick and hard. Nails are strong and dark. Front dewclaws may be removed but are normally left intact. Rear dewclaws, if any, are removed. The feet should recoil cleanly from each stride.
Serious Fault: Feet that drag along the ground on recoil.
TAIL
The tail is set on low in a natural extension of the unexaggerated, slightly sloping croup. The tail extends at least to the hock joint. When the dog is relaxed, the tail hangs in a slight curve, like a saber. When the dog is excited or moving, the tail may be raised and the curve accentuated but the tail is never carried above a vertical line extending from its base. The coat on the tail stands outward, giving the tail a bushy appearance.
Faults: A slight hook in the tail to the extent it mars the dog’s general appearance.
Serious Faults: Tail too short; ankylosis.
Disqualification: Docked tail.
COAT
The German Shepherd Dog is double coated. The outer coat lies close to the body and is dense and straight with harsh texture. A slight wave is acceptable in a particularly harsh coat. The undercoat is short, dense, and fine-textured. The coat on the body is of medium length but not so long as to detract from the dog’s ability to withstand bad weather conditions. The coat is shorter on the head (including the inside of the ear), the legs, and the feet. The coat on the neck is longer and thicker, forming a slight ruff, particularly on some males. The hair on the back of the legs is longer and thicker, forming trousers on the hindquarters, and extending to the pasterns in front and the hock joint behind.
Serious Faults: Short, mole type coat; long coat that stands away from the body; soft coat; absence of undercoat.
COLOR
The German Shepherd Dog comes in many colors and white. In evaluating colored dogs, strong, deep colors are preferred. Nose, lips, and eye rims must have dark pigment, regardless of coat color. Color faults are minor in comparison to defects of type and structure.
Serious Faults: Pale, washed-out colors; blue; liver.
Disqualification: Albinism.
HEIGHT
Desirable height at maturity for males is 24 to 26 inches; for females, 22 to 24 inches.
GAIT
Absolute soundness of movement is paramount. Correct gait is an essential feature of the German Shepherd Dog. When trotting, it moves with a long, effortless, efficient stride that is driven by a powerful forward thrust from the hindquarters.
The rear leg, moving forward, swings under the foreleg and touches down in front of the point where the forefoot left an imprint. The result is that one rear leg passes outside its corresponding front leg and the other passes inside its corresponding front leg. This is a breed characteristic and should not be penalized as long as the body is straight in relationship to the direction of movement.
As the rear leg moves backward, the body is propelled forward. The front and rear feet remain close to the ground throughout. When trotting, the back remains firm and level with no superfluous vertical movement. Hocks should be strong and straight, turning neither in nor out as the dog moves. There should be no visible “wobble” to the hock. Neither front nor rear pasterns should strike the ground; this is an unacceptable exaggeration and an indication of incorrect movement. As the speed of the trot increases, there is a tendency to single track. Correct movement and soundness must be evaluated from front and rear as well as the side.
Serious Faults: Any fault that affects correct movement.
DISQUALIFICATIONS
Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Viciousness or extreme shyness. Undershot. Wry mouth. Nose not predominantly black. Cropped ears. Drop or tipped ears. Docked tail. Albinism.